Arctic domes for homes: the dream goes on

Could a few thousand cheap, cute, igloo-shaped geodesic domes solve the Canadian Arctic’s housing crisis?

Looking at the history of domes in this region, the answer has to be… maybe not.

Just ask people who have lived in Arctic domes about what they’re like.

In 2008 this dome in Bathurst Inlet, Nunavut also sported a small satellite dish. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

In 2008 this dome in Bathurst Inlet also sported a small satellite dish. On the right, the kind of houses people now prefer. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

“It was good for the first couple of years,” Peter Kapolak told me in 2008, as we discussed his dome-living memories from Bathurst Inlet back in the mid-1970s. “Then, condensation formed on the ceiling and dripped down.”

Sam Kapolak, who also lived in one of several domes built in that western Nunavut community, said he didn’t like dome living because the domes lacked insulation,  and ice would form on nails inside. The only advantage of a dome over an igloo was that the dome didn’t collapse in the spring when the ice melted, he said.

Built in 1971, Bathurst Inlet’s domes were replaced by more conventional homes in the early 1990s.

But the metal-clad domes — of which three still stood in 2008 — were the brainchild of the late Glenn Warner, a former Mountie who opened the Bathurst Inlet Lodge in 1969.

Standing inside one of the dilapidated domes, Glenn Warner talks in 2009 about how he got the idea to bring domes to Bathurst Inlet.

Standing inside one of the dilapidated domes, Glenn Warner talks in 2008 about how he got the idea to bring domes to Bathurst Inlet. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Warner told me in 2008 that the Government of the Northwest Territories was delighted with the dome house idea, because in 1971 building a dome cost much less than other types of housing units in the territory.

Warner said he wanted to get better housing for the people of Bathurst Inlet, who lived in shacks on the beach, so he went to see Stuart Hodgson, then NWT commissioner.

Hodgson told Warner that he didn’t have any specific budget set aside for social housing in Bathurst Inlet, but could find $27,000 from a so-called slush fund to cover the shipment of construction materials to the community. That’s how the territorial government, minus today’s bureaucracy and legislative assembly, operated in those days.

So, Warner submitted two possible housing designs to the community — one for a “normal” house and another for a dome.

Everyone opted for the domes. These were prefabricated in Alberta and brought north to Bathurst Inlet by a Hercules aircraft that landed on the sea ice. When more new houses were built, the domes were quickly exchanged for boxy one-bedroom units.

Glenn Warner, who died in 2014 at the age of 80. walks towards two of the three remaining domes at Bathurst Inlet in 2009.

Glenn Warner, who died in 2014 at the age of 80. walks towards two of the three remaining domes at Bathurst Inlet in 2008.

Dome structures became popular elsewhere in the Arctic, too, during the 1970s, mainly because the dome shape resembled that of a snow house.

In the western Nunavut community of Cambridge Bay, there were also domed-homes, built in the dome-home-craze and then torn down in late 1980s. You can seem them in a photo recently posted on Facebook, which prompted a woman to recall that it “would whistle like crazy during winter storms.”

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Cambridge Bay domes, built in the late 1970s, but later torn down in this photo by Steve Mercer, posted on Facebook.

In 2009, I was excited to find a dome that was being used as a church in Baker Lake — and others have told me of domes in other communities.

The Christian Fellowship Hall in Baker Lake, 2009. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

The Christian Fellowship Hall in Baker Lake, 2009. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

But most of these domes have been torn down, as in the case of the Cambridge Bay domes.

Iqaluit’s blue dome, or “igloo,” was finally demolished in 2006 after being plagued by structural problems.

The $1.4 million blue structure opened amid much fanfare and controversy in 1993, but the building cracked, leaked, sagged and reacted badly to extreme changes in temperature.

The dome served as an office for the Baffin Regional Inuit Association. It also housed the Office of the Interim Commissioner and, after April 1, 1999 and the creation of Nunavut, the dome provided temporary accommodation to Nunavut’s executive and intergovernmental affairs department.

A youth centre that then operated there had to close its doors in 2002 after vandals entered and trashed the interior.

Iqaluit’s Kamotiq Inn, site of many long beer-and-cigarette-infused meetings among Nunatsiaq News staffers during the 1980s and 1990s, was torn down in 2008. Built in 1980, its red dome stood as a landmark at what’s now the traffic-congested Four Corners intersection in Iqaluit. I watched the bulldozer smash into it. Soon, only the sign was left. Farewell to plates of deep-fried maktaaq whale skin and Kamotiq burgers.

The Kamotiq Inn ended its career as a local watering hole and pizza place in 2008 when it was demolished to pave way for the Qomatiq building. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

The Kamotiq Inn was demolished in 2008 to make way for the Qamotiq commercial-office building. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Used to be from inside the “K-Inn” you could admire the lines (‘though somewhat grimy )of the geodesic dome, conceived in 1949 by R. Buckminster Fuller, the early environmental activist who was devoted to “applying the principles of science to solving the problems of humanity.”

Fuller’s dome, called “geodesic” after the Latin word meaning “shortest line between two points,” used a network of triangles to create a self-supporting framework. Cheap and easy to build, it’s no wonder domes became fashionable.

Back in the mid-1950s, there was even a plan to put a geodesic dome over Frobisher Bay (now the city of Iqaluit), stretching half a mile in diameter. Because the proposed dome would have blocked out the sun,  streetlights would have had to remain on 24-7, even during the long sunlit days of spring and summer.

In the Nunavik community of Puvirnituq— when it was then called Povungnituk, the museum built in the 1960s, now long-gone. was built as a dome.

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Here’s what the museum in then-Povungnituk looked like. I pulled this photo of Facebook, where it was posted by Putugu Nulukie.

Today, you can still find domes around Nunavik and Nunavut, but not necessarily geodesic ones. These include a museum in Inukjuak, a dome in Sanikiluaq and the dome that holds crushed rock at the Meadowbank gold mine in Baker Lake.

When I visited Agnico Eagle Mines' Meadowbank mine near Baker Lake, this dome to hold processed gold-rich rocks was still construction. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

When I visited Agnico Eagle Mines’ Meadowbank mine near Baker Lake in 2009, this dome to hold processed gold-rich rocks was still construction. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

The Arctic dome-dream hasn’t yet died: a former Pangnirtung resident recently proposed lowering price of food in this Nunavut community by growing vegetables locally in dome-shaped greenhouses. And, at one time, Makivik Corp. hatched a plan to build prefabricated green mini-domes for use by Nunavik hunters.

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This photo of Sanikiluaq taken in 2016 by Sarah Meeko shows a dome (but not a geodesic dome)

And the drive to find a good fit for domes in the Arctic continues: a company called Inter-shelter says its domes “provide shelter for camping, hunting, military command centers, disaster relief, temporary labor lodging even as a bugout shelter for the doomsday prepper in you.”

Have you read my last blog post?

The seven natural wonders of the Arctic world

And then there’s the “Like an iceberg” series about my experiences in the Arctic during the 1990s.

Like an iceberg: on being a journalist in the Arctic

Like an iceberg, 1991…cont.

Like an iceberg, 1991…more

Like an iceberg, 1992, “Shots in the dark” 

Like an iceberg, 1992, “Sad stories”

Like an iceberg, 1993, “Learning the language of the snows”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., “Spring”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., “Chesterfield Inlet”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., more “Chesterfield Inlet”

Like an iceberg, 1994: “Seals and more”

Like an iceberg, 1994, cont., “No news is good news”

Like an iceberg, 1994 cont., more “No news is good news”

Like an iceberg, 1994 cont., “A place with four names”

Like an iceberg, 1995, “More sad stories”

Like an iceberg, 1995 cont., “No place like Nome”

Like an iceberg, 1995 cont., “Greenland”

Like an iceberg, 1995, cont. “Secrets”

Like an iceberg, 1996, “Hard Lessons”

Like an iceberg, 1996 cont., “Working together”

Like an iceberg, 1996 cont., “At the edge of the world”

Like an iceberg, 1996, more “At the edge of the world”

Like an iceberg, 1996, cont. “Choices” 

Like an iceberg, 1997, “Qaggiq”

Like an iceberg, 1997, more “Qaggiq”

Like an iceberg, 1997, “Qaggiq” cont.

Like an iceberg, 1997 cont., “Qaggiq and hockey”

Like an iceberg, 1997 cont., “Brain surgery in POV”

Like an iceberg, 1997 cont.: “Masks on an island”

Like an iceberg, 1997 cont., “Abusers on the pulpit”

Like an iceberg, 1998, “Bearing gifts”

Like an iceberg, 1998 cont., “At the top of the world”

Like an iceberg, 1998 cont., “A bad week” 

Like an iceberg, 1998 cont.: more from “A bad week”

Like an iceberg, 1998 cont., “Memories”

Like an iceberg, 1999, “The avalanche”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., “An exorcism, followed by a penis cutting”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., more on “the Avalanche”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., “Robins in the Arctic”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., “Fossil hunting”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., “Where forests grew” 

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont.,”And then there was Nunavut”

Like an iceberg … the end

dome. Bathurst Inlet, NU. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Dome. Bathurst Inlet, 2008. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Bye-bye to Cambridge Bay, NU

DSCN9928When I arrived in Cambridge Bay, Nunavut, this past September, I caught the last few warm, dry days of this year. And there were lots of snow buntings to make things lively.

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The view from my friends’ house — where I would end up spending nearly two months, thanks to their incredible hospitality — included a view over to Mt. Pelly, about 20 kilometres away to the east.10486129_10203881751476252_362758816693141826_n

During those first days of this year’s visit to Cambridge Bay, I took many long walks — and I visited with my many friends in the western Nunavut town of 1,700.

But I couldn’t help tracking and writing stories, first for this blog, and then, finally again, for Nunatsiaq News, as I returned to work.

There was no boredom ever for me during my visit, even on weekends.

So, what should you do if you’re lucky enough to visit Cambridge Bay — located a couple of hours by air north from Yellowknife in the Northwest Territories?10636227_10203881777476902_4135097640546042607_n

Here are some ideas:

• If you are around when a barge comes in, go down and watch everything be offloaded and stacked up on shore.10486129_10203881751356249_1883627419365031161_n

• Keep an eye on what’s happening at the dock — that’s where I met the folks from the ocean observatory and the yacht, the Latitude. Boats and ships travelling the Northwest Passage are always docked there in August and September.10513324_10203912169676688_4055274122942086626_n

• Walk to the airport and back. Have an expresso or latte at the Arctic Closet café at the airport.

On the return trip you’ll get a great view of Cambridge Bay with Mt. Pelly in the distance.10612861_10203901284724571_7197797717356445544_n

And you can check out the municipal golf course, called “Many Pebbles.”

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You can also get a view over to the Cam Main North Warning site (what do they do there anyway?)IMG_0507

• Head over to the plateau on the way to Mt. Pelly to see what’s happening at the construction site of the Canadian High Arctic Research Station, set to open in 2017.

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After that, continue on and peek into the dump — it’s probably Nunavut’s best landfill, but still some of the trash is whipped around by the wind and most of what can’t be reused locally is reduced by open burning.DSCN9893

Further on you’ll find cabins as well as the cemeteries, old and new.DSC04110

Then, if you cross the bridge to your right, you’ll walk past the site of the old town site as well as a new park commemorating residential school students — and get a great view of the town beyond.DSCN9677

A little further on yet, you’ll arrive at the site of the Maud, Roald Amundsen’s ship, which may not be there too long if Norwegians are successful in 2015 in bringing the Maud back to Norway.DSCN9682

Down the road, there’s the newly renovated stone church built by Catholic missionaries, which celebrated its 60th anniversary in September 2014.

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And close by is the Eagle, which ended up on shore there in 1954, when missionary Father  André Steinmann bought the ship — but then was transferred back east.

Near to that, you might also still find some remnants of the Loran tower, erected in 1947, to be a navigational beacon for aircraft. Many of the community’s first houses were built using its plywood shipping crates. The Loran was torn down in 2014.DSCN9870

That’s a bit of a hike but you can always wave people down for lifts back to town!

• Walk around Cambridge Bay, check out the Northern and Co-op stores and see how much it costs to eat. And look at the bulletin boards to see what’s going on. There’s always some meeting or activity.IMG_0589

• Visit the new Kitikmeot Inuit Association building.

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• Go to the May Hakongak Library and cultural centre: check out the cultural displays and look for some of the many Arctic-related books I gave to the library in 2011.1385026_10204200137915714_2356068575569011207_n

Elders, who work in the back on projects, put some of their handiwork for sale, too.

• Visit the Arctic Coast visitors centre — you can find more pamphlets there on what to do.

• Go to the Elks club early Friday evening and find someone to sign you in — you’ll make new friends and may be able to hang on to a drink token as a souvenir.

You use a drink token like this one at the Elks' bar. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

• Go to Sunday service (in English and Inuinnaqtun) at St. George’s Anglican Church — seeing the stained glass windows are worth going to see and you’ll be welcomed warmly.10590417_10203887713345295_8169413709948011638_n

• Get up early and watch the sun rise.

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• Don’t miss any of the sunsets (but to see them you’ll have to go outside the days of 24-hour sunlight and darkness.) They’re all different.

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• Eat lots of Arctic char.

• Try to make friends with people who have vehicles and cabins — they’ll be able to navigate the bumpy roads and take you to see Mt. Pelly or Gravel Pit and beyond. Maybe you’ll see a muskox along the way.DSC04116

And you won’t want to miss a visit to Mt. Pelly.

From every angle, and particularly at sunset, when it catches the last rays, this flat esker of a mountain looks great.10696390_10204115681524357_5328699515534850929_n

• Arrive with good shoes, rubber boots and boots with spikes for when the roads freeze up and get slippery.

When I left Cambridge Bay in the end of October 2014, everything already looked different: the days were shrinking,  temperatures often dropped into the minus 30 Cs with wind and my middle-weight parka was too light. And I was busier, too, back to work, covering back-to-back meetings, with less time to enjoy the scenery.

The view looked different from the front porch, too. But I was rewarded with amazing sights, including this pink-lit scene of ice crystals in the air at sunset as I walked back after work. Like heaven.

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Can’t wait to get back.

Now that I am back at work, you won’t find as many new blog entries.

But if you missed previous posts, including the “Like an Iceberg” series, take a look here:

Positive attitude key to suicide prevention: Inupiaq TV star

CamBay ocean observatory stimulates local interest

My Cambridge Bay weekend

Nunavut, still Canada’s youngest, fastest growing jurisdiction: StatsCan

A makeover for CamBay’s ocean observatory

Canada ignores Arctic infrastructure: veteran ice pilot

New roof, new life for CamBay’s old stone church

Two Arctic ships, two explorers: Franklin and Amundsen

Today, Arctic explorers take cruise ships

And from the “Like an Iceberg” series:

Like an iceberg: on being a journalist in the Arctic

Like an iceberg, 1991…cont.

Like an iceberg, 1991…more

Like an iceberg, 1992, “Shots in the dark” 

Like an iceberg, 1992, “Sad stories”

Like an iceberg, 1993, “Learning the language of the snows”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., “Spring”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., “Chesterfield Inlet”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., more “Chesterfield Inlet”

Like an iceberg, 1994: “Seals and more”

Like an iceberg, 1994, cont., “No news is good news”

Like an iceberg, 1994 cont., more “No news is good news”

Like an iceberg, 1994 cont., “A place with four names”

Like an iceberg, 1995, “More sad stories”

Like an iceberg, 1995 cont., “No place like Nome”

Like an iceberg, 1995 cont., “Greenland”

Like an iceberg, 1995, cont. “Secrets”

Like an iceberg, 1996, “Hard Lessons”

Like an iceberg, 1996 cont., “Working together”

Like an iceberg, 1996 cont., “At the edge of the world”

Like an iceberg, 1996, more “At the edge of the world”

Like an iceberg, 1996, cont. “Choices” 

Like an iceberg, 1997, “Qaggiq”

Like an iceberg, 1997, more “Qaggiq”

Like an iceberg, 1997, “Qaggiq” cont.

Like an iceberg, 1997 cont., “Qaggiq and hockey”

Like an iceberg, 1997 cont., “Brain surgery in POV”

Like an iceberg, 1997 cont.: “Masks on an island”

Like an iceberg, 1997 cont., “Abusers on the pulpit”

Like an iceberg, 1998, “Bearing gifts”

Like an iceberg, 1998 cont., “At the top of the world”

Like an iceberg, 1998 cont., “A bad week” 

Like an iceberg, 1998 cont.: more from “A bad week”

Like an iceberg, 1998 cont., “Memories”

Like an iceberg, 1999, “The avalanche”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., “An exorcism, followed by a penis cutting”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., more on “the Avalanche”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., “Robins in the Arctic”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., “Fossil hunting”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., “Where forests grew” 

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont.,”And then there was Nunavut”

Like an iceberg … the end