New roof, new life for CamBay’s old stone church

An old stone church, a landmark in the western Nunavut community of Cambridge Bay, celebrated its 60th anniversary — and new roof — with a barbecue Sept. 12, just two days shy of the anniversary date of its first mass: Sept. 14, 1954.

Here you can see the new roof of the old stone church and the plywood now covering the windows. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Here you can see the new roof of the old stone church and the plywood now covering its windows. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Father André Pierre Marie Steinmann, an Oblate missionary much better known for his years in northern Quebec, built the church, which had fallen into disrepair.

But this past summer Cambridge Bay Coast Guard auxiliary was able to carry out $100,000-worth of renovation work, which is still not complete.

And they undertook the project with no government assistance — raising the needed money only through fundraising.

“Rocks and mortar — we knew we could do it on our own,” said Wilf Wilcox, a local businessman and member of the local Roman Catholic congregation. “We had the blessing of the community and the church.

And we didn’t want any red-tape.”

Wilcox’s mother, Bella, who attended the Sept. 12 BBQ, is among those who still remember when the church was used.

Nine parishioners attended its first mass on Sept. 14, 1954.

Ida Neglak sits in front of the newly-renovated old stone church.  (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Ida Neglak sits in front of the newly-renovated old stone church. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

After Father Steinmann’s arrival in Cambridge Bay from northern Quebec in 1953, he worked with local parishioners and two fellow missionaries, Fathers Lemer and Menez, to build the church.

Their materials: seal oil and clay as mortar and broken rocks for the walls — plentiful around Cambridge Bay.

Built for warmth, the church retained heat with an insulating layer of caribou fur between two layers of stone walls.

But soon after its completion, Father Steinmann left the western Arctic.

After several attempts to reconstruct the crumbling structure — not easy because of the original mortar used, vandals set fire to the church in 2006.

A cross on a wall in front of the old stone church. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

A cross on a wall in front of the old stone church. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

While the roof and interior burned completely that day, snow still clung to the outside as the fire blazed and didn’t melt, due to the insulation from the double walls and fur lining.

The stone church isn’t the only legacy of Father Steinmann to be found today in Cambridge Bay.

In 1954, Father Steinmann purchased the Eagle, a small longline fishing boat, said to have been towed from Tuktoyaktok to Cambridge Bay, leaking all the way.

Father Steinmann's boat, the Eagle, as it sits today in Cambridge Bay. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Father Steinmann’s boat, the Eagle, as it sits today in Cambridge Bay. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

When the Eagle arrived, Steinmann had left for northern Quebec, where he had already spent the years between 1938 and the early 1950s, in Wakeham Bay (now Kangiqsujuaq), Sugluk (now Salluit) and Koartak (now Quaqtaq).

There’s no record of what he intended to use the Eagle for, so the boat stayed on the beach, not far from the semi-submerged hulk of the Maud, once sailed by Norwegian Roald Amundsen, the first European adventurer to successfully voyage through the Northwest Passage.

In the Nunavik community of Puvirnituq, then called Povungnituk or POV, Father Steinmann and Pitaaluk, the tall, Inuktitut-speaking Hudson’s Bay Co. manager Peter Murdoch, worked with Inuit living in camps around today’s community to set up a new way of trading and buying goods — which would eventually grow into today’s co-operatives in Nunavik and serve as an inspiration to those in Nunavut.

During the 1950s and 1960s, Father Steinmann encouraged artists, such as the great artist Davidialuk Alasuak, to portray Inuit legends and humour in his carvings and prints.

Father Steinmann himself was said to have owned “the best examples of erotic Eskimo carvings to be found in the world,” according to an article on Inuit art and co-operatives by anthropologist Nelson Graburn, which was published in the journal Museum Anthropology in 2000.

Father Steinmann’s cramped quarters were said to be crammed with “mythological carvings and humorous nudes.”

Some say Father Steinmann’s earthiness was intended to draw Inuit away from the strait-laced Anglicans towards Roman Catholicism.

But others in Puvirnituq have told me that Steinmann, like some other Oblate missionaries and Roman Catholic priests, including Eric Dejaeger, sentenced this Sept. 12,  was banished from northern Quebec after he had abused youth there.

This practice he picked up again on his return to the region, according to many in that Hudson Bay community, and one which produced a legacy of child sex abuse.

Cambridge Bay Catholics now worship at our Lady of the Arctic, built in the 1970s.  They hope the old stone church will be used for special events, such weddings or baptisms.

Look for further posts from A date with Siku girl from Cambridge Bay.

Recent posts include:

Two Arctic ships, two explorers, Franklin and Amundsen

Today, Arctic explorers take cruise ships

Parts of this post were previously published in a Nunatsiaq News feature from 2011.

A view of the church with its new roof on. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

A view of the church with its new roof. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Today, Arctic explorers take cruise ships

More than 100 years after Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen successfully traversed the Northwest Passage in 1905-06, there’s a new kind of sailor eager to accomplish that iconic voyage: the cruiser.

In 2014, five cruise ships — albeit some looking more like icebreakers than luxury liners — stopped by the western Nunavut of Cambridge Bay, where I’m staying this month, to start or finish their trip through the passage.

To see what kinds of well-heeled folks travel on those trips, which can cost $7,000 USD and more, I tracked a plane load of more than 100 passengers who arrived in the town of about 2,000 people to set off on their Adventure Canada trip through the Northwest Passage.

After landing Sept. 8, they spent an afternoon in the community, participating in activities led by Vicki Aitaok, who’s organized similar visits for several years.

Jessie Tologanak tells a group of cruisers the legend of Mt. Pelly, seen in the distance beyond. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Jessie Tologanak tells a group of cruisers about the legend of Mt. Pelly, seen in the distance beyond. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

My group of cruisers set off to walk around town with Jessie Tologanak under sunny skies, heading down the muddy main street, past the hamlet office, the health centre, St. George’s Anglican Church and the visitors centre, down to where everyone could see across to Mt. Pelly, the 200-metre-high esker located 15 kilometres outside town.

“We call that Ovayuk,” she said, pointing to Mt. Pelly, relating the legend of how a starving giant laid down and died there.

Inuit legend says that Ovayuk and two smaller hills are a family of starving giants who were crossing Victoria Island looking for food.

The father, Ovayok, died first.

“His bladder burst and that’s water you see there,” Jessie said, pointing to the bay.

A cruiser takes a photo of an old Hudson Bay Co. building. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

A cruiser takes a photo of an old Hudson Bay Co. building. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Visiting Nunavut and Greenland, where the cruise would end Sept. 22, is different from visiting Antarctica, a woman told me as Jessie spoke. That’s because there were only penguins in Antarctica, she told me — no people or communities.

Many in the group wore jackets from those trips marked “Antarctic,” and nearly all said they had been to the North before, to Alaska, Yukon or the Svalbards.

And, while I expected to find an elderly bunch of people, this gang was fit. Although I saw at least one hearing aid, these men and women didn’t appear to have any difficulties.

“You’ll find a well-travelled group here,” an Adventure Canada organizer told me. “It may be a trip of a lifetime to go through the passage, but they’ve been to lots of other places before.”

And the cruisers had researched their destinations and voyage beforehand. A woman told me how Adventure Canada had first cancelled the trip she was to embark on. That’s because the ship slated for this cruise, the Clipper Adventurer, which spectacularly ran in to a shoal near Kugluktuk in August 2010 during a previous Adventure Canada cruise, had broken down.

And it was only at the last minute that she and the other passengers had been offered a chance to travel on the Akademik Sergey Vavilov, docked outside Cambridge Bay.

The Russian-registered Akademik Sergey Vavilov, redubbed One Oceans Voyager by uneasy Canadians, at anchor Sept. 8 outside Cambridge Bay. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

The Russian-registered Akademik Sergey Vavilov, redubbed One Ocean Voyager by uneasy Canadians, lies anchored Sept. 8 outside Cambridge Bay. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

That the vessel is a Russian-run and registered ship, previously used to carry out Russian research, wasn’t something you read widely, she said — instead it was redubbed “The One Ocean Voyager,” during on a previous cruise.

That’s when its crew and passengers with One Ocean Expeditions and the Royal Canadian Geographical Society participated in Parks Canada’s effort to locate HMS Erebus and HMS Terror, the ships lost on Franklin’s 1845 expedition.

“I guess Harper didn’t want to be seen as using a Russian vessel on his Canadian mission to find the ships,” she said. (Harper announced Sept. 9 the discovery of one of Franklin’s two ships)

Cruisers take in the exhibits at the May Hakongak Community Library and Heritage Centre. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Cruisers take in the exhibits at the May Hakongak Community Library and Heritage Centre. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

We continued back to the Kiilinik High School where there was time to peek into the May Hakongak community library and heritage centre before the start of a cultural performance, which included a qulliq lighting, local throat singers, drummers and dancers, and music from blind musician Ashlee Otokiak.

Dancers at the Sept. 8 cultural performance at Cambridge Bay's high school. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Dancers at the Sept. 8 cultural performance at Cambridge Bay’s high school. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Then they walked off down the hill to the bay to board the Akademik Sergey Vavilov on zodiacs.

But given the heavy ice conditions in the Northwest Passage this year, a passenger joked they could be back in Cambridge Bay next week.

“But it’s the trip, not the destination” — Kangerlussuaq, Greenland — that counts, he said.

Keep a look out for future posts from Cambridge Bay in A date with Siku girl.