The seven natural wonders of the Arctic world

The ancient Greeks had their list of the seven wonders of the world: This one is is entirely my own subjective list of the seven natural wonders of the Arctic, because I haven’t seen everything in the circumpolar world.

But I challenge readers of a Date with Siku Girl to suggest other places that belong on the following list:

1) The Fossil Forest on Nunavut’s Axel Heiberg Island: the Geodetic Hills are pinkish and rounded, streaked with darker lines that mark the remnants of forests that grew 45 million years ago. A tall, lush forest flourished there when the average mean temperature on Axel Heiberg ranged from seven to 15 Celsius. Worried about life? Climate change? You can contemplate eternity here while you look at those ancient stumps.

An ancient stump on the Geodetic Hills of Axel Heiberg. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

An ancient stump on the Geodetic Hills of Axel Heiberg. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

2) Northern Ellesmere Island in Nunavut’s High Arctic: best to visit this beautiful place in the summer, when you can see something. Then the hills come alive with wildflowers, but maybe only for a couple of weeks or perhaps a few days. There is a valley north of Carl Ritter Bay that I would like to return to some July to once again see this view extend before me.

This valley in northern Ellesmere is the most beautiful place I ever see. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

This valley in northern Ellesmere is the most beautiful place I have ever seen. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

3) Sunset over Mt. Pelly near Cambridge Bay, Nunavut: from every angle, and particularly at sunset, when it catches the last rays, this flat 200-metre-high esker looks great.  And its an esker with a backstory: Inuit lore says Ovayuk and two smaller hills are a family of starving giants who were crossing Victoria Island looking for food. The father, Ovayok, died first. His bladder burst, creating the lakes left below.

You can see Mt. Belly at sunset behind the town of Cambridge Bay, Nunavut. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

You can see Mt. Pelly at sunset behind the town of Cambridge Bay, Nunavut. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

4) Northern Norway’s fiords: why take a cruise? Drive: A surprise awaits you around every twist in the road as you travel from Kirkenes south to Tromsø. It’s hard to focus on the road because the scenery — mountains, fiords, fields, sheep and reindeer — is so awesome. Luckily, there are lots of places to stop, including the World Heritage Site for the Alta rock drawings and the Riddu Riddu indigenous arts festival north of Tromsø. So there’s no hurry at all.

Mountains, fields and fiords, all above the Arctic Circle. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Mountains, fields and fiords, all above the Arctic Circle. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

5) Finnish lakes at sidsummer: Okay I’m biased because the Finnish language and summer in Finland is part of my life, but there’s nothing more heart-warming to me than to see the sun dipping down and staying on the horizon for hours, while the sunlight seems to make everything glow. I just want to stay there forever.

Midsummer in Finland. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Midsummer in Finland. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

6) Iceland’s geysers and algae balls: take your pick, they’re both wonderful in a weird way.

I hold a jar with an algae ball from Myvatn, Iceland. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

I hold a jar with an algae ball from Myvatn in northern Iceland during a 2003 visit. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

The “lake balls,” the strange, ball-shaped algae called “kúluskítur,” or “balls of shit” in Icelandic, or “Cladophora aegagropila” in Latin, only exist in two lakes: Lake Akan on Hokkaido Island in Japan, and Myvatn, which I visited on a Canadian state visit to Iceland in 2003.

Geyser, Iceland. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Geyser, Iceland. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

The geysers seemed to be everywhere, and, during later trips to Iceland, I grew to love their smaller, less explosive relatives, hot springs that keep swimming pools steaming.

7) Pangnirtung, Nunavut: this fiord can’t look bad in any light… and it’s as beautiful now as it was in 1993 when I took this photo.

A snowmobile heads out over the sea ice in Pangnirtung's fiord in May 1993. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

A snowmobile heads out over the sea ice in Pangnirtung’s fiord in May 1993. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

(And there are other sights worthy of mention which I have seen, such as Nuuk, Greenland‘s Sermitsiaq mountain or

Sermitsiaq mountain, a landmark in Nuuk. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Sermitsiaq mountain, a landmark in Nuuk. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Nunavik’s plateaus in spring or fall when there are no mosquitoes or

Koksoak river near Kuujjuaq in early June. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Koksoak river near Kuujjuaq in early June. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

 

the flowers of Nunavut’s Bathurst Inlet in July or

A carpet of flowers covers the land around Bathurst Inlet in July. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

A carpet of flowers covers the land around Bathurst Inlet in July. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

the floe edge in north Baffin or

At the floe edge, ice churns constantly. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

At the floe edge, ice churns constantly. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

the hoodoos of Bylot island.

In the valley of the hoodoos on Bylot Island, 1996. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

In the valley of the hoodoos on Bylot Island, 1996. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

As well, there are places I have not seen that I am sure would rival these sights, such as Little Diomede off Alaska or lush southern Greenland in the summer.

Have you read my “Like an iceberg” series? Check them out here:

Like an iceberg: on being a journalist in the Arctic

Like an iceberg, 1991…cont.

Like an iceberg, 1991…more

Like an iceberg, 1992, “Shots in the dark” 

Like an iceberg, 1992, “Sad stories”

Like an iceberg, 1993, “Learning the language of the snows”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., “Spring”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., “Chesterfield Inlet”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., more “Chesterfield Inlet”

Like an iceberg, 1994: “Seals and more”

Like an iceberg, 1994, cont., “No news is good news”

Like an iceberg, 1994 cont., more “No news is good news”

Like an iceberg, 1994 cont., “A place with four names”

Like an iceberg, 1995, “More sad stories”

Like an iceberg, 1995 cont., “No place like Nome”

Like an iceberg, 1995 cont., “Greenland”

Like an iceberg, 1995, cont. “Secrets”

Like an iceberg, 1996, “Hard Lessons”

Like an iceberg, 1996 cont., “Working together”

Like an iceberg, 1996 cont., “At the edge of the world”

Like an iceberg, 1996, more “At the edge of the world”

Like an iceberg, 1996, cont. “Choices” 

Like an iceberg, 1997, “Qaggiq”

Like an iceberg, 1997, more “Qaggiq”

Like an iceberg, 1997, “Qaggiq” cont.

Like an iceberg, 1997 cont., “Qaggiq and hockey”

Like an iceberg, 1997 cont., “Brain surgery in POV”

Like an iceberg, 1997 cont.: “Masks on an island”

Like an iceberg, 1997 cont., “Abusers on the pulpit”

Like an iceberg, 1998, “Bearing gifts”

Like an iceberg, 1998 cont., “At the top of the world”

Like an iceberg, 1998 cont., “A bad week” 

Like an iceberg, 1998 cont.: more from “A bad week”

Like an iceberg, 1998 cont., “Memories”

Like an iceberg, 1999, “The avalanche”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., “An exorcism, followed by a penis cutting”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., more on “the Avalanche”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., “Robins in the Arctic”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., “Fossil hunting”

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont., “Where forests grew” 

Like an iceberg, 1999 cont.,”And then there was Nunavut”

Like an iceberg … the end

 

A makeover for CamBay’s ocean observatory

Hauling a large, 250-pound device connecting hundreds of feet of fluorescent ethernet wire out of icy water is no simple task.

Two University of Victoria divers prepare to raise the ocean observatory. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Two University of Victoria divers prepare to raise the ocean observatory. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

But that’s exactly what a team of divers and young researchers with the University of Victoria and the Ocean Networks Canada project did Sept. 16.

The waters near the Cambridge Bay dock stood at 1.9 C — and would, in fact, start freezing up the next day — but protected by drysuits, two divers managed to bring the marine observatory up to the surface and then hoist it on to the dock for its annual overhaul, a new platform and other new instruments.

By then, the sun was setting in over the Cam-Main North Warning System site to the west — and there would be no time for them to carry on with the plan to take apart the observatory for storage overnight.

Researchers and community volunteers help pull the ocean observatory out of the water. (PHOTO COURTESY OF OCEANS NETWORKS CANADA)

Researchers and community volunteers help pull the ocean observatory out of the water. (PHOTO COURTESY OF OCEANS NETWORKS CANADA)

But they didn’t have a place to store the four-foot-wide triangular device or even a way to move it.

The ocean observatory perches on top of an Adlair Aviation pick-up truck. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

The ocean observatory perches on top of an Adlair Aviation pick-up truck. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Thanks to help from an Adlair Aviation pilot, they managed to lift the platform into the air charter’s pickup truck and bring it up to the airport hangar for safe storage.

When underwater, the device measures such things such as underwater temperature, sounds, salinity and ice thickness. It’s also equipped with a camera — which needs replacement — to keep an eye on the seabed.

Similar observatories have been installed off the coasts of British Columbia, part of Ocean Networks Canada, a University of Victoria project, which “operates world-leading cabled ocean observatories for the advancement of science and the benefit of Canada,” according to its website.

Researchers from the University of Victoria dismantle the ocean observatory for transport Sept. 16. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Researchers from the University of Victoria dismantle the ocean observatory for transport Sept. 16. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Cambridge Bay’s observatory could be the first in a series to monitor changes in the Arctic.

Launched in September 2012 — and observed by Premier Stephen Harper last month when he visited Cambridge Bay, the observatory will help establish a baseline of environmental conditions, such as rates of ice growth and the timing of algae blooms.

This year, the team plans to service and reinstall:

  • an underwater high definition video camera;
  • an acoustic ice profiler; and,
  • a fish tag receiver from the Ocean Tracking Network.

They also plan to install new instrumentation, including a photosynthetically active radiation sensor that will measure underwater light levels and help scientists study changes during key periods, such as spring, when the polar sunrise triggers algae blooms under the ice.

A sea snail retrieved from  the seabed near the ocean observatory. (PHOTO BU JANE GEORGE)

A sea snail retrieved from the seabed near the ocean observatory. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Above water, a video camera will continue to monitor surface ice formation and the weather station will provide real-time atmospheric conditions.

An antenna positioned on top of a nearby building will continue capturing signals from nearby ships, a project website says.

Divers plan to sample fauna on the sea floor, and look for a new observatory location in 2015.

This will position the underwater sensors at a greater distance from vessels and winter road traffic near the busy Cambridge Bay dock.

Among the interesting tidbits learned to date by the observatory about air and sea water temperatures during the winter in Cambridge Bay:  while winter air temperatures frequently dip below -30 C, water beneath the ice remains near 0 C.

Then, during the summer, prolonged sunshine raises air temperatures and melts the ice, raising seawater temperatures to about 10 C.

And, in November 2013, the observatory caught the sound of ice cracking as a snowmobile travelled over the ice near the Cambridge Bay hydrophone. The snowmobile broke through the ice a short time later.

The University of Victoria team plan to wrap up their work some time next week after they meet with local students and people in the community to talk about their project.

Look for more posts from Cambridge Bay, Nunavut.

Recent posts on A date with Siku girl include:

Canada ignores Arctic infrastructure: veteran ice pilot

New roof, new life for CamBay’s old stone church

Two Arctic ships, two explorers: Franklin and Amundsen

Today, Arctic explorers take cruise ships