Like an iceberg, 1995, “More sad stories”

Like an iceberg, 1995: “More sad stories”

In early March 1995, even by the middle of the night, the sun was almost up in Iqaluit. Steam rose through the cold half-light and mingled above the townhouse complex that locals called the “white row-housing” because of the white cladding on its exterior. It was  minus 35 C.

In a unit, perhaps that one at the end of the first block — with the Canadian flag draped across a window — all the lights were on. The outer door was half-open. Some time in the middle of the night, RCMP members perhaps forced it open, responding to a call reporting a violent domestic dispute inside.

Or maybe there was violence, blows, tears, and no one called to report it.

There, a bruised woman sat, unable to sleep due to her pain, over a cup of lukewarm tea at her kitchen table. She stared out the window, down to the bay where large chunks of ice had been heaved into motionless currents, and, beyond, towards the horizon, where dawn colours rounded the icy mountains with gold …

An aerial view over Frobisher Bay at sunset. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

An aerial view over Frobisher Bay at sunset. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

In the elders’ modern residence down by Frobisher Bay, an elderly woman also woke up with the sun. The large windows of her cozy apartment opened onto the beach. She remembered how Iqaluit looked when she first arrived there in 1957.

“There were no houses then. We wanted to leave, but our dogs died,” she said, speaking through a friend I brought as an interpreter.

This elder said that, when she was younger, she never saw any violence between men and women.

“Life before the settlements was simpler,” she said.

During her early years, she spent her time mastering important skills. Knowing how to sew warm clothes was essential for survival on the land. She  said she still visited the sod hut built for elders, to peacefully sew sealskins for boots and mitts.

But warm clothes no longer offered the same guarantee of well-being as they once did.

Many of the battered women in Iqaluit were like L., a 22-year-old woman from northern Baffin Island whom I met. L. had lived here for several years. She and her boyfriend shared a four-bedroom unit with six adults and several children.

“My boyfriend was physically and emotionally abusive,” L. said. “He had a lot of pressure because he had no job. And he began to get really violent every time he got drinking.”

When L. couldn’t stand her boyfriend’s drinking and beating anymore, she reported him to the RCMP. L.’s boyfriend was charged with assault: “it was very hard.”

An Iqaluit March sunset. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

An Iqaluit sunset in March. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

According to RCMP records, battered women called for help only after 30 to 40 violent incidents. But even so, calls were increasing in frequency.

In a single year in the mid-1990s, reports to the RCMP about domestic violence rose by one-third. Still, in Iqaluit, women were much more likely to seek assistance than in the smaller communities on Baffin Island, although police said the level of domestic violence was probably similar.

A young mother, M., who came from a community in northern Baffin Island, told me how she decided to leave her husband after 10 years of increasingly violent physical and mental abuse.

When M. told him she wanted to end their relationship, she said he kept her in their house and tortured her for two weeks. Finally, M. escaped to the nursing station, where arrangements were made for her to leave her community with her child for the women’s shelter in Iqaluit.

“My husband went on the community radio and cried he needed me. My own family was against me. ‘Stay with him,’ they said.”

View over Iqaluit in the spring. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

View of Iqaluit in the spring. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Iqaluit’s shelter is called Qimaavik: in Inuktitut, meaning “the place to run to.” Most Inuit women must leave their communities to reach the shelter. Many don’t want to do this.

“I like the idea of shelters, but you can get that support from your community,” said a woman, who was urged by the RCMP to press charges against her husband or else leave herself. “I say, he’s my husband, and I forgive him. It’s just that he was mad at something.”

Lay leaders within the church sometimes encouraged women to forgive abusive spouses, I am told.  They said God supportrf the absolution of sin and, when slapped, to “turn the other cheek.”

“We should be more forgiving,” said another woman said. “They don’t counsel them in jail. Anyway, they’re going to be coming back. It could be ruining your life more not to forgive.”

L., who persisted in pressing charges and even saw her violent boyfriend go to jail, said she had now forgiven him, too. When he was serving weekends for her assault, they continued to live together, along with his extended family. “I felt I couldn’t abandon him. I was the only one who could easily understand.”

Inuit women, like L., who are victims of spousal assault, may forgive their abusers, but a healer I meet in Pangnirtung saif women can’t as forget their pain that easily.

“People are like icebergs,” said Meeka Arnakaq.

Inuit women say little about what they feel, she said.

An image fom a series of booklets produced in 2010 by the Canadian Centre for Substance Abuse and Tungasuvvingat Inuit on Meeka Arnakaq's approach to healing.

An image fom a series of booklets produced in 2010 by the Canadian Centre for Substance Abuse and Tungasuvvingat Inuit on Meeka Arnakaq’s approach to healing.

Arnakaq  lived near those mountains that appear to melt into the fiord every day, in a dazzling display, but she said many women there hardly slepy because of the pain deep within.

She says women must begin to talk.

“The iceberg needs to be broken. Even if it’s big, it will break. The only way it can get fixed is if you talk. We have to break the iceberg into pieces. Then things will come out. After the iceberg has crumbled, there’s a cleansing of the body. Everything will come out in anger and rage,” said Arnakaq.

“I counsel people and I tell them that if they’re hurting, they have to let everything out.”

But many Inuit women still face a life-long exile if they decide to end their pain by doing more than talk — that is, by leaving their abusive mates.

“I’ll never go back [home],” said M., who decided to divorce her husband, in spite of his pleas and the intense pressure from her community and family.

More than a year after fleeing to the shelter, M. remained in Iqaluit. She regretted having sent her little girl back home. Now, she was fighting for custody in the courts.

“Most of my life I’ve seen drunk and abusing people,” said M. “Now, I feel just about perfect. I used to have a dream to be peaceful and not always worry. Now, I have it all, except my kid.”

Talking to these women about their pain was hard, writing about it was hard.

But hearing from an editor at a large southern daily newspaper, for whom I have already written three drafts of a story about domestic violence in the North, that he wants more even details about the level of violence these women suffered and that I haven’t gotten into the subject deeply enough, gave me shivers: I let the story be killed.

More from “Like an iceberg” on April 22.

Did you miss the first blog posting of “Like an iceberg”? You can read it here.

You can read previous instalments here:

Like an iceberg: on being a journalist in the Arctic

Like an iceberg, 1991…cont.

Like an iceberg, 1991…more

Like an iceberg, 1992, “Shots in the dark” 

Like an iceberg, 1992, “Sad stories”

Like an iceberg, 1993, “Learning the language of the snows”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., “Spring”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., “Chesterfield Inlet”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., more “Chesterfield Inlet”

Like an iceberg, 1994: “Seals and more”

Like an iceberg, 1994, cont., “No news is good news”

Like an iceberg, 1994 cont., more “No news is good news”

 

Like an iceberg, 1994 cont., “A place with four names”

 Like an iceberg, 1994, cont.: “A place with four names”

It was a smooth trip: I left Montreal at 9:40 a.m. and the jet arrived in Great Whale on the tip of James Bay in northern Quebec by 1 p.m. But the cloud ceiling was low, so we made a wide circle over the Great Whale River and then over the long beach that runs up the Hudson Bay coast, north and out of sight.

An aerial view of the Great Whale river at the site of the community of Kuujjuaraapik and Whapmagoostui. (PHOTO/ NUNAVIK-TOURISM)

An aerial view of the Great Whale river at the site of the community of Kuujjuaraapik and Whapmagoostui. (PHOTO/ NUNAVIK-TOURISM)

Rain swept across the runway in Great Whale, the community called Kuujjuaraapik by Inuit, Whapmagoostui by Cree and Poste-de-la-Baleine by Québécois. Some called it the “Miami of the Arctic,” but I was cold and dripping wet after riding to a friend’s house from the airport on her all-terrain vehicle.

My arrival coincided with Quebec election day: Sept. 12, 1994, which saw a Parti Québécois win. In the community’s triple gymnasium, three polling stations were set up, for Cree, for Inuit and for non-Aboriginals, a reminder that these three groups generally live dseparate lives despite being neighbours.

No Cree had voted by mid-afternoon, although the Inuit and non-Aboriginal turnout was good.

In pouring rain, I walked to the band council office where I ran into the chief, Matthew Mukash. He says he’s not voting, although a Parti Québécois win didn’t worry him.

Mukash said a PQ victory could put more focus on outstanding issues between Quebec and the Cree — such as Cree political autonomy and the $13.3-billion hydro-electric complex that its power corporation, Hydro Québec, wanted to build on the Great Whale River.

The Great Whale river in 1994. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

The Great Whale river in 1994. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

“I think we’re possibly looking at a resolution of some kind in regards to this issue of separation. Their issue of separation involves our right to separate,” Mukash said.

Mukash and four other Cree were on their way to Nemaska Lake in the heart of the James Bay Cree region. On the day after the Quebec election, they planned to hold a special gathering to talk about their future at Old Nemaska, a campsite more than an hour and a half away by truck and boat from today’s Nemaska. It was a place which Hydro Québec planned to flood for the project: Cree opposition to the project was why their meeting was to take place there.

I decided to accept an invitation to tag along. So I was back at the airport the next morning when the sun was shining — at least.

My Cree traveling companions arrived. They brought their own stoves along with a tent, and our bush float-plane was loaded to the top with gear. After we finally landed  on the lake, I had a moment of uncertainty as I took my bag off the shore to find tent space to sleep in: What was I doing?

There was no electricity, no phones, no way to file a story or even talk to an editor or producer, so I decided the next day to head back to Nemaska, a community that was all sand, towering pine trees and birches by the shores of smooth, blue Champion Lake.

The Cree Regional Authority building in Nemaska. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

The Cree Regional Authority building in Nemaska. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

At the goose-shaped Cree Regional Authority headquarters, I ran into Ted Moses, the Cree ambassador to the United Nations. On my first trip north in 1991, I had gone spring goose hunting with Moses and his family. This time, we weren’t talking about the how-to of goose hunting, but about self-determination.

“They say we have no more rights, which is a bunch of bullshit,” Moses said. “Can you hand over such things to an institution?”

Later that afternoon, the truck ride back to the place where we will catch the boat to Old Nemaska felt endless on the grey, bumpy road. Then, there was the boat ride — again — to bring us over the lake to the camp.

I arrived too late for supper but someone offered me a roasted goose breast. I crawled into my sleeping bag on a cushion of evergreen branches to spend a restless night. The tent fire went out, the temperature dropped, and  I was barely warm enough.

Dawn in Old Nemaska, September 1994. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Dawn in Old Nemaska, September 1994. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

In the morning the rising run gave the fog an orange tinge. A boat with a fisherman drifted by. Plumes of fragrant smoke rose from the stoves in every white tent.

In the afternoon, a few long tables were set up in a blue and white tent for the delegates, people of all ages, all Cree.

“Our government is not the provincial government, not the federal government, but us here,” said an elder.

“The question facing us is can we govern ourselves if Quebec becomes independent? The answer is yes,” Moses told them.

I then headed back to Nemaska, again a three-hour round-trip, to file another story.

Canoes approach the camp in Old Nemaska. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Canoes approach the camp in Old Nemaska. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

A sunny day for the next day: a line of canoes arrived across the lake from another community, small dots that finally grew bigger, and then landed. The slapping of the water combined with a prayer of thanks for their safe arrival filled the air.

Talks continued: a Cree declaration of self-determination would be the next step.

At the feast that night there was sturgeon, moose and smoked bear paw on the menu. Later the weather changes, and rain and wind battered the tent. No plane could land to take us back.

In the morning, I headed across the lake in the small boat overloaded with people, crouching under a plastic tarp, hoping we wouldn’t capsize, to hitch a ride on a truck back to Nemaska. I was beginning to recognize every turn in that long road road.

In Nemaska for the night, I spoke to Mukash again.

“The power of the mind can make miracles,” Mukash said. “The Great Whale hydro project will never be built. Hydro Québec has made a mistake, although they won’t admit it.”

Mukash sketched a picture of the mind, with the conscious, sub-conscious and super-conscious: it turned out that he was a fan of Swiss psychiatrist Carl Jung.

“They will never build it.”

A delayed plane arrival also led to a talk with Robbie Dick, a former band chief of Whapmagoostui. Cree, he said are “guardians of the land.”

“If you take a plane from the southern part of the United States up to the North, you’ll see the difference between north and south. This excavating, this raping of Mother Earth has to stop.”

Makivik Corp. president Simiunie Nalukturuk and vice-president Zebedee Nungak at the 1994 signing of an agreement-in-principle on the future construction of the Great Whale hydroelectric project. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Makivik Corp. president Simiunie Nalukturuk and vice-president Zebedee Nungak at the 1994 signing of a $500-million agreement-in-principle on the future construction of the Great Whale hydro-electric project. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

We finally took off to Great Whale. There, I spent the afternoon walking around, heading down to the river. If that power project went ahead, the river’s flow would be diverted 40 kilometres upstream and the river would be reduced to a trickle.

Inuit had already signed an agreement-in-principle, worth $500 million, to allow the project to move forward — but the newly-elected PQ premier, Jacques Parizeau, put the project on ice in November 1994.

Before heading off to Nemaska with the Cree, I had been planning to fly on to Sanikiluaq to visit a former classmate in the intensive Inuktitut course in Iqaluit. But the yearly season of autumn fog descended and flight after flight was cancelled. So I finally decided to return to Montreal.

The next instalment of “Like an iceberg” goes live April 18.

You can read previous instalments here:

Like an iceberg: on being a journalist in the Arctic

Like an iceberg, 1991…cont.

Like an iceberg, 1991…more

Like an iceberg, 1992, “Shots in the dark” 

Like an iceberg, 1992, “Sad stories”

Like an iceberg, 1993, “Learning the language of the snows”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., “Spring”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., “Chesterfield Inlet”

Like an iceberg, 1993 cont., more “Chesterfield Inlet”

Like an iceberg, 1994: “Seals and more”

Like an iceberg, 1994, cont., “No news is good news”

Like an iceberg, 1994 cont., more “No news is good news”