My Cambridge Bay weekend

Here’s something that bugs me. People in southern Canada often ask me, “isn’t it boring in the North?” They have no idea how interesting a weekend in Cambridge Bay, Nunavut can be.

My weekend starts on Friday, Sept. 19,  at 5 p.m.

That’s when I head off to where you go in this western Nunavut community for some good conversation and maybe a drink or two — the Elks’ social club.

You use a drink token like this one at the Elks' bar. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

You use a token like this one at the Elks’ bar in exchange for a drink. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

There, around a dozen round tables, I meet people of all ages, from youth to elders, Inuit and non-Inuit, who talk, drink, watch television or play darts.

At 5:30 p.m., the room is nearly empty, but, by 8 p.m. it’s full and noisy, so I leave.

But I stop off on the way home to make a date to speak with the crew of the Martin Bergmann research vessel — named after the director of the Polar Continental Shelf Program who died in the Aug. 20, 2010 crash of First Air flight 6560 in Resolute Bay, which I covered.

The Bergmann crew members, I learned at the Elks, had just disembarked from their boat after helping to locate one of Sir John Franklin’s wrecked ships, an event announced earlier this month by Prime Minister Stephen Harper.

I knock on the crew’s door. After I introduce myself, we agree to speak the next morning. But one of them tells to me not to expect much information: “it’s secret, secret. It’s all secret. There are things only the PM can reveal.”

So I wonder what will come of our arrangement to speak. We agree to meet at 10 a.m. the next day.

Sunrise, with Mt. Pelly in the distance. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

After sunrise, with Mt. Pelly in the distance. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

On the morning of Saturday, Sept. 20, the sunrise is enveloped in sherbet — or that’s what it looks like to me. Shades of orange, yellow and green cloak Mt. Pelly in the distance. The view from where I am staying is diffused by fog for a while.

At 10 a.m., when I venture out for my interview, I am not surprised to learn that the Bergmann folks have got cold feet: they say need to speak to their “comms” person before they can speak to me. I’m polite, but I know they have no intention of getting back to me, and they don’t (I read later in the Toronto Star,  a southern news outlet which no one here besides me probably reads, that the plan is “to reveal some details soon.”)

I walk down to the shore and the dock where their boat and a tug, the Tandberg Polar, here to fetch Roald Amundsen’s Maud, are floating back to back, vying for space: each vessel needs secure moorings before the ice, which first showed itself on the bay a few days ago, moves in for good.

I watch a lone kayaker paddling across the still waters while I continue to walk to towards the airport, about 3.5 km out of town. There, I think, I’ll have a latte at the the Arctic Closet airport concession, which my friend, Vicki Aitaok, operates there.

I work the cash while Vicki makes coffee at her Arctic Closet Airport concession. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

I work the cash while Vicki makes hot dogs at her Arctic Closet Airport concession. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

I do have a latte — but I also end up spending the next four hours helping Vicki make coffees from a huge expresso machine and  selling snacks. Polar-bear shaped fridge magnets in the shape of the former Nunavut license plate, saying “Cambridge Bay,” are big sellers.

The small airport terminal is packed because of crew changes on two Coast Guard icebreakers, the Louis St. Laurent and the Terry Fox. They’ve just returned from the North Pole on the 20th anniversary of the first icebreaker visit to the Pole.

“We had a day off [at the North Pole]. We went out on the ice,” said a man, dressed in a hoodie with a giant logo showing the Louis St. Laurent surrounded by the ice.

At the North Pole, he said they played games and took photos. It was so warm on the ice that they needed only hoodies and light jackets. “One guy was wearing a Hawaiian shirt,” he said.

They took a day off from their seismic seabed scanning to collect information needed for Canada’s submission to the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea on seabed rights to its continental shelf extension.

But that would have been an expensive day of fun at the pole, I think. That’s because it costs up to $80,000 a day just to operate an icebreaker, I learned while travelling through the Northwest Passage on the CCGS Amundsen in 2010.

I walk back from the airport and see the Polar Tandberg and Bergmann still jostling for space at the dock as a team from Ocean Networks Canada prepares for another dive.

Cambridge Bay's sunset on Sept. 21. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Cambridge Bay’s sunset on Sept. 21. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Later, I head out past Cam-Main, a North Warning System site, to see the sunset. The clouds explode again in ice-cream colours and then move into cherry-red.

The next day, Sunday, Sept. 21, includes a bilingual church service, at the tiny, white St. George’s Anglican Church.

A stained glass window at St. George’s Anglican Church. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

A stained glass window at St. George’s Anglican Church. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

A respected elder, Paul Omilgoituk, died Sept. 20. During the service, he’s remembered as a leader in the church who became a community leader because of his position in the church.

As I listen to prayers in Inuinnaqtun, I remember the late Bishop of the Arctic, John Sperry, who translated all the hymns and prayers into Inuinnaqtun.

A stained glass window at St. George's Anglican Church. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

A stained glass window at St. George’s Anglican Church. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

The “Bish,” as we called him, 84 and with poor eyesight when I met him in 2008 at the Bathurst Lodge, never stopped enjoying life. He would hike around with his cane, and once, when we visited an island, he pointed out a complex of huge rocks once used for early Inuit dwellings.

After church, light snow starts to fall.

And so Sunday continues.

Just another weekend in the Bay.

Recent “A date with Siku girl” posts from Cambridge Bay include:

Nunavut, still Canada’s youngest, fastest growing jurisdiction: StatsCan

A makeover for CamBay’s ocean observatory

Canada ignores Arctic infrastructure: veteran ice pilot

New roof, new life for CamBay’s old stone church

Two Arctic ships, two explorers: Franklin and Amundsen

Today, Arctic explorers take cruise ships

Bright light from the setting sun illuminates part of the town Sept. 21. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Bright light from the setting sun illuminates part of the town Sept. 21. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

A makeover for CamBay’s ocean observatory

Hauling a large, 250-pound device connecting hundreds of feet of fluorescent ethernet wire out of icy water is no simple task.

Two University of Victoria divers prepare to raise the ocean observatory. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Two University of Victoria divers prepare to raise the ocean observatory. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

But that’s exactly what a team of divers and young researchers with the University of Victoria and the Ocean Networks Canada project did Sept. 16.

The waters near the Cambridge Bay dock stood at 1.9 C — and would, in fact, start freezing up the next day — but protected by drysuits, two divers managed to bring the marine observatory up to the surface and then hoist it on to the dock for its annual overhaul, a new platform and other new instruments.

By then, the sun was setting in over the Cam-Main North Warning System site to the west — and there would be no time for them to carry on with the plan to take apart the observatory for storage overnight.

Researchers and community volunteers help pull the ocean observatory out of the water. (PHOTO COURTESY OF OCEANS NETWORKS CANADA)

Researchers and community volunteers help pull the ocean observatory out of the water. (PHOTO COURTESY OF OCEANS NETWORKS CANADA)

But they didn’t have a place to store the four-foot-wide triangular device or even a way to move it.

The ocean observatory perches on top of an Adlair Aviation pick-up truck. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

The ocean observatory perches on top of an Adlair Aviation pick-up truck. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Thanks to help from an Adlair Aviation pilot, they managed to lift the platform into the air charter’s pickup truck and bring it up to the airport hangar for safe storage.

When underwater, the device measures such things such as underwater temperature, sounds, salinity and ice thickness. It’s also equipped with a camera — which needs replacement — to keep an eye on the seabed.

Similar observatories have been installed off the coasts of British Columbia, part of Ocean Networks Canada, a University of Victoria project, which “operates world-leading cabled ocean observatories for the advancement of science and the benefit of Canada,” according to its website.

Researchers from the University of Victoria dismantle the ocean observatory for transport Sept. 16. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Researchers from the University of Victoria dismantle the ocean observatory for transport Sept. 16. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Cambridge Bay’s observatory could be the first in a series to monitor changes in the Arctic.

Launched in September 2012 — and observed by Premier Stephen Harper last month when he visited Cambridge Bay, the observatory will help establish a baseline of environmental conditions, such as rates of ice growth and the timing of algae blooms.

This year, the team plans to service and reinstall:

  • an underwater high definition video camera;
  • an acoustic ice profiler; and,
  • a fish tag receiver from the Ocean Tracking Network.

They also plan to install new instrumentation, including a photosynthetically active radiation sensor that will measure underwater light levels and help scientists study changes during key periods, such as spring, when the polar sunrise triggers algae blooms under the ice.

A sea snail retrieved from  the seabed near the ocean observatory. (PHOTO BU JANE GEORGE)

A sea snail retrieved from the seabed near the ocean observatory. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Above water, a video camera will continue to monitor surface ice formation and the weather station will provide real-time atmospheric conditions.

An antenna positioned on top of a nearby building will continue capturing signals from nearby ships, a project website says.

Divers plan to sample fauna on the sea floor, and look for a new observatory location in 2015.

This will position the underwater sensors at a greater distance from vessels and winter road traffic near the busy Cambridge Bay dock.

Among the interesting tidbits learned to date by the observatory about air and sea water temperatures during the winter in Cambridge Bay:  while winter air temperatures frequently dip below -30 C, water beneath the ice remains near 0 C.

Then, during the summer, prolonged sunshine raises air temperatures and melts the ice, raising seawater temperatures to about 10 C.

And, in November 2013, the observatory caught the sound of ice cracking as a snowmobile travelled over the ice near the Cambridge Bay hydrophone. The snowmobile broke through the ice a short time later.

The University of Victoria team plan to wrap up their work some time next week after they meet with local students and people in the community to talk about their project.

Look for more posts from Cambridge Bay, Nunavut.

Recent posts on A date with Siku girl include:

Canada ignores Arctic infrastructure: veteran ice pilot

New roof, new life for CamBay’s old stone church

Two Arctic ships, two explorers: Franklin and Amundsen

Today, Arctic explorers take cruise ships