Like an iceberg, 1991…more

The Migration by Puvirnituq carver and printmaker Joe Talirunili. Talirunili's carving depicts an event when the boat on which he was travelling was nearly trapped by crushing ice in Hudson Bay. (PHOTO/ART GALLERY OF ONTARIO)

The Migration by Puvirnituq carver and printmaker Joe Talirunili. Talirunili’s carving depicts an event when the boat on which he was travelling was nearly trapped by crushing ice in Hudson Bay. (PHOTO/ART GALLERY OF ONTARIO)

1991: cont. from April 3

The night I met Peter Murdoch it was frigid and windy. I looked out of the window at J.’s apartment in Puvirnituq, and I could barely see the lights from the nearby houses. I’d arranged to meet Murdoch at the hotel, but I didn’t know where it was, so J. called the hospital van, which picked me up.

A view down a street in Puvirnituq with the Inuulitsivik Health Centre to the right. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

A view down a street in Puvirnituq, with the Inuulitsivik Health Centre to the right. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

I pushed the heavy metal doors, and headed tentatively down the narrow, carpeted hallway to what seemed to be the hotel’s communal kitchen.

“I’m looking for Peter Murdoch?” I said.

“You’ve found him,” said an older non-Inuit man, who resumed speaking Inuktitut to a younger Inuk.

“You speak Inuktitut!” I said.

“Even five-year-olds here speak it. So what’s so unusual about me?” Murdoch said.

We went into his small hotel room to talk, just a narrow bed, chest of drawers, a lamp, snow layered against the single window on the outside wall. Murdoch  — a tall man, maybe in his 60s, balding hair and a nervous habit of clearing his throat that I ended up editing out of every taped interview. I knew nothing about Murdoch, so he told me about himself.

In 1991, he was the general manager of the Fédération des Co-opératives du Nouveau-Québec, then an association of 12 co-operatives in northern Quebec.

But he had started off as a Hudson’s Bay Co. employee back in the 1940s. Then, as a young man from Newfoundland, he was sent to Baffin Island to run trading posts. And, he learned Inuktitut and the Inuit way of life.

“I enjoyed hunting a lot, going out with people, seeing the way they lived,” Murdoch said. “Visiting in tents, learning the language. I never tried to learn it. If someone told me something, I just remembered it.”

Often he was the only white man in a settlement. In Pond Inlet, on the northern coast of Baffin Island, he’d spend the long days of spring and summer out on the land, sometimes walking for days. He found a people with values he admired.

“When I first came to the North I was lucky. I came early enough to see people living the old type of life,” Murdoch said. “Their ability to accept people as they were, their ability to share, to be completely non-judgmental, let everyone be what they wanted, their ability to live with time — if there was nothing to do, they did it gracefully, did it well and enjoyed it. When things were tough, no one complained. You accepted your life as it came and I felt then that we could have learned a lot from the Inuit and the ways they relate to each other.”

As he spoke, I was brought back to a North that seemed almost a perfect society.

“The only thing that made a person an outcast,” Murdoch said, “was if he was a danger to the rest of the people. Then, they would react to get rid of that person. You didn’t see problems until after people moved into communities in the ‘50s.”

Murdoch first came to Puvirnituq with the Hudson Bay Co. in the early 1950s, when people were still living on the land in camps, not far from the trading post. In Pond Inlet, thousands of seals could be found on the ice year-round, but in Puvirnituq, he found a much poorer environment.

The fledgling community then consisted of a trading post, a dwelling, a small shack and a couple of snow houses. That’s all there was. Two small camps were located within walking distance, one with eight or 10 snow houses, the other with four or five. People were hungry. There was a lot of sickness. At that time people would sell a small carving for tea, the next day for flour or lard to make bannock.

“Sort of a dead-end sort of life,” he told me.

Murdoch walked around the camps, bringing medicine, getting to know the people.

“Here you had a group of Inuit living for the next meal. Just what you can get for the next meal. Yet, in talking, they were articulate, intelligent. So, we tried to find a better way.”

That better way was to try and pool resources to invest in purchases that would improve the standard of living for everyone, like buying a new boat or more ammunition.

Part of all sales from carvings would be used collectively — and the camps would decide what do. An election was held, and the camps voted a leader. It was all self-motivated, Murdoch said. It was the beginning of the co-operative movement in northern Quebec.

“It was never,” he said with emphasis, “a community development project” — the kind of government-sponsored projects that are imposed from the South by people from the South.

The market for soapstone carvings was just beginning in the South when Murdoch visited those camps. And sales of carvings would be the base of the co-operatives that grew up at the same time that Inuit were moving off the land, into communities. Inuit in Puvirnituq were good carvers, he said.

“They idealized hunting because there was so little game. It came out in the art and Puvirnituq became quite quickly known for its realism, with a dream-like quality.”

Peter Murdoch in 1992, then the general manager of the Fédération des co-operatives du Nouveau-Québec, stands by a shelf full of carvings from the Nunavik community of Kangirsuk on display at the showroom of the FCNQ headquarters in Baie d'Urfé, Quebec. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Peter Murdoch in 1992, then the general manager of the Fédération des Co-opératives du Nouveau-Québec, stands by a shelf full of carvings from the Nunavik community of Kangirsuk on display at the showroom of the FCNQ headquarters in Baie d’Urfé, Quebec. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

I knew little about Inuit art the night I spoke with Murdoch, but I was wondering why the print shop closed. I had climbed through snowdrifts to reach this small building, now locked and boarded over.

Murdoch told me that it was because welfare pays more than art today. The recession in the South had cut art sales. Printing was an expensive operation, so it was the first casualty. Now, the co-operatives couldn’t afford to buy all the carvings that are produced, so people were giving up carving, too. There had been 60 carvers in Puvirnituq a few years earlier. When I met Murdoch, only about 10 men seriously carved.

“If this was happening to wheat farmers, there would be something done,” Murdoch said. “But there is nothing done for the Inuit, nothing. Here, we see a whole way of life, a whole group of people turning from being self-supporting to a welfare society. There is no economy except what they can do with their hands or tourism. Everything is tied to the southern economy, and it’s magnified in the North.”

The co-ops were suffering too in 1991, because, to keep consumer prices reasonable, they needed to have some other source of revenue as a subsidy, Murdoch said.

But the co-operative way of doing things, he said, was no longer being encouraged by government, as it was in the 1960’s, and Inuit themselves were becoming drawn to the new development corporations that feed on land-claim settlement money.

That night Murdoch brought me from an idyllic past where Inuit life was tough, but pure, almost a reflection of the stereotypical soapstone imagery, back to today’s difficult, modern reality. He was telling me that there was a battle being fought between big forces, different ways of thinking, of living, of doing business. Inuit may be the casualties, and no one’s doing or saying anything, he said. Inuit strengths are disappearing. Murdoch’s disillusionment struck through me, like a bolt.

“We can destroy them very easily as a people,” he said. “Or we could help them. We could see their value. We could develop that, help them. I don’t think that we are that concerned about their survival. If we don’t change that, there is no future for the Inuit, as a race, as a culture. They are finished.”

After two hours of listening to Murdoch, I ended the interview. I didn’t know much then about Inuit and the co-operative movement he worked for, but I was moved by his vision. On my way back from the hotel to J.’s, I almost got lost, stumbling through the snow, following the pale lights from the windows of houses and the howling dogs as guides.

I did my first short radio documentary for the Canadian Broadcasting Corp.’s national radio network on Peter Murdoch and the plight of Inuit carvers in the North.

But a producer in Toronto said “why should we care about this? A few Inuit that don’t have enough money for new snowmobiles?” and killed the piece.

The late Puvirnituq sculptor Eli Sallualu Qinuajua explored surrealism in many of his carvings, which include this carving called “Fantastic Figure." (IMAGE/ AGO)

The late Puvirnituq sculptor Eli Sallualu Qinuajua explored surrealism in many of his carvings, which include this carving called “Fantastic Figure.” (IMAGE/ AGO)

Like an iceberg continues April 5 with 1992, “Shots in the dark.”

You can read the first entry here.

Like an iceberg, 1991…cont.

The back view from the apartment where I stayed in Puvirnituq in November 1991. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

The back view out of the apartment where I stayed in Puvirnituq in November 1991. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

1991, continued from April 2:

I can still see the view from J.’s apartment in Puvirnituq. I’d press my nose against the glass and look out, past older matchbox houses, to more recently-built units with red, blue or green siding and a few three-storey apartment buildings, all separated by huge banks of snow.

Beyond the last house: an endless view of rocks and snow. As I looked out the window, I would run my tongue over my teeth. I could taste the film of seal fat.

“No matter what you do,” J. had counselled me. “Don’t eat too much of the seal fat. I burped it up for a week.”

On my second day in Purvirnituq, wind and snow were still blowing in from the land.

In this cold place, everyone then lived in heated homes, there were snowplows to clear the roads and trucks to pick up sewage and bring in fresh water. In 1991, snowmobiles took people around the community or out on the land — but chained-up sled dogs still howled behind every home and woke me up during the night.

I’d been invited for lunch at the home of L.’s mother-in-law. There, in the vestibule of her house, my too-bright, felt-lined boots joined the huge pile of  boots stacked up against fox pelts and parkas.

L.’s relatives met at her mother-in-law’s kitchen every day for lunch. I walked in and greeted them. They were already sitting around the floor around a large piece of cardboard. In the middle of the sheet lay several large chunks of raw caribou — one looked like a leg, the other a roast. That is, it would have, had it been cooked. Everyone was busy slicing slivers of the half-frozen meat. The women used a rounded ulu knife to deftly cut the caribou right into their mouths. The men handled straight-edged knives. These were the only utensils around.

“Sit down, sit down,” L.’s sister-in-law called over.

I joined the group, sitting cross-legged on the linoleum.

“Try this,” said L., handing me a slice of the raw caribou. It’s surprisingly tender.

She pointed out a container of oil in the middle of the cardboard.

“We dip the tuktu in this seal oil, misaraq — it’s like our ketchup! But, watch out, it tastes hot.”

This Puvirnituq elder, who hosted my first country foods meal in November 1991, deftly slices caribou with an ulu. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

This Puvirnituq elder, who hosted of first country foods meal in November 1991, deftly slices caribou with an ulu. (PHOTO BY JANE GEORGE)

Lots of laughs. I immersed a small piece of my meat into the pungent, cheesy oil. L. then carved me a large piece of the raw Arctic char. I wasn’t able to figure out what raw caribou tasted like, but the first bite of char reminded me of more familiar textures of sushi or gravlax salmon. It was good. Between the bits of conversation, there was only the sound of razor-sharp ulus flipping over the meat. As I nibbled on the char, I was searching for ways to digest the scene in front of me. No, it wasn’t a picnic, not a barbecue. We were inside, in the middle of a November mini-blizzard.

I joined in. I was given a hunk of whale blubber, mataaq,  neatly carved into a waffle pattern for easier eating. It looked like bacon, I couldn’t help thinking, but tasted a bit like coconut-flavoured bubble gum and the rind was thicker. We sipped coolish tea as we ate.

“Too bad you’re not here when we’re having snowy owl,” L. said. “It’s my favourite.”

Country foods, as I learned Inuit call these raw local dishes,  reflected the reality of the fuel-less tundra around us, a harvest of the wild where agriculture is impossible.

After everyone had eaten enough, it was time to clean up. The leftover pieces of meat and fish were wrapped up and put back in the freezer or tossed out on to the porch. The few scraps that remained were pushed to the centre. These were to be fed to the dogs. Then, the cardboard that was been our table was folded up for storage until the next meal. Finally, L. whisked the kitchen floor with a large feathered goose wing. The kitchen was clean again and there was no sign that we had our feast at all.

I saw how country foods still nourished this community in 1991.

When a fishing boat returned after a five-day trip up the coast, its arrival was announced on the community radio station. Everyone ran down to the dock with plastic bags. The walrus caught by the men was spread out in front of the boat. Then, there was a kind of banquet when everyone in the community sampled the walrus, and afterwards, each family took a big piece home.

From what I could see at the local co-operative store in Puvirnituq, foods from the South looked like an expensive choice: $3.15 for a lettuce, a melon for $6.60 or how about cookies at over $7.00 a box? I saw bottled water on sale for the first time in my life — something I never thought of buying in the South. And why would people need to buy water here? Because, I learned, the water delivered to homes could sometimes make people sick. Co-op members received a discount when they buy at the store, I learn, and they could always charge their purchases when money was tight.

Over the co-op’s office counter, I spoke with the manager, Aisara Tukalak. How do people survive here, I asked him. Sometimes they didn’t, was his answer. He told me — for the first time  — a story that I would hear countless times, of how during a famine, many years ago, the Hudson Bay Co. trading post refused to offer Inuit credit. With no furs to barter, many starved to death, he told me. I asked Tukalak many questions, but he spoke almost no English and I didn’t yet speak any Inuktitut at all.

“Talk to Peter Murdoch,” Tukalak said, pronouncing the word like “Peetah.” “At the hotel… later.”

To be continued April 4

You can read the first part here.

iceberg in davis strait

Join me in “Like an iceberg” as I remember my travels in the Canadian Arctic during the 1990s, a period when few journalists travelled as widely in the region.

I started working on this tale back in 1996, thanks to a Canada Council Literary Development grant, and then put everything aside for more than 15 years as I worked for the Nunatsiaq News. 

I am taking the liberty of changing some names and details to protect the many people who spoke to me freely and to safeguard myself against any possible defamation lawsuits.

Comments are welcome!